Bolted the 22/08/2012 by Thiabaud brothers (Sylvain & Vincent )

15 august, soon the end of the holidays.

Many many projects done this summer, but so many others in my mind! No routes in the “Croix des Têtes” peak this year, that must be change.

600m of limestone pillar in the middle of Maurienne valley, I see it every morning I open my window. The face is better known by climbers since the Mussato climbing guide “Itinéraire d'un grimpeur gate”, where 3 routes are described : “Helena's route” in the little pillar, “Happy Birthday” in the big pillar, and “Choucas Kouille” in the right side of the face... I never climbed on this side, let's go :-)

Hard to remember this route. It was great, but it's mainly the virgin wall at the left side which shout myself! My bolter brain was ON: virgin wall, here a king line pitch, wonderful edges, and here a good place for a belay station, huge pitches... I already want to come back here! I never bolted a multi-pitch route, I had to start it one day, why not tomorrow?

Collect gear, static ropes, bolts, drill. Have a look at photos, using remembrances to find the perfect line... so much gear to carry on the top of the face, we'll do many portage with heavy 25kg packs (2h30, 900m). Thanks to Alex & Vince for helping ;-)

22 August, start at 6H with heavy packs: rope, drill & water...  lightning makes us hesitant... weather must be good, we choose to keep on walking. 8H30, we are at the top of the future route. 9H, the gorge resonates of the first drill shot. Groove edges so deep looks like tufas :-)

Descending on the static rope, searching for the line, edges, belay station... scales and brittle edges are throwing to the bottom of the face, scary but intoxicant!  :-)

Space out the bolts, but not too much... try to put long pitches, for the next marvelous climb. Impressed by the wonders carved by time and erosion... just the edges necessary, nothing superfluous.

At last, the bottom of the face, we just have to climb back 300m of face on the static ropes, clean the edges, try to remember the crux for the next climbing (as soon as possible). It seems endless, we are tired and pitches are very long. Top of the face, glad we did it together, between brothers :-)

New route to try just close to home, dream child is finished.

The comeback is painful : heavy packs and storm !

Now: the name of the route! The name isn't trivial: always a message, a goal, a meaning or just a funny name :-)  Many hard portages: it will be “Chercher Sherpa Pas Cher”, in english “Looking for low cost Sherpa”.

Just a few days before leaving the valley for the south-west in Toulouse, I climbed this wonderful route with my friend Jean-Baptiste. After a first easy pitch, I start for 60m where I break 2 holds with 2 big falls. Next pitch of 60m, the hardest: 7b+/c. And then 2 easier pitches: 7a & 6c

Such a good feeling to climb your own route with a friend on perfect rock!  I'll come back next summer to succeed all pitches. First Ascent is waiting for you climbers...

Have a good climb!

See you next

Sylvain

[gallery link="file"][:us]Bolted the 22/08/2012 by Thiabaud brothers (Sylvain & Vincent )

15 august, soon the end of the holidays.

Many many projects done this summer, but so many others in my mind! No routes in the “Croix des Têtes” peak this year, that must be change.

600m of limestone pillar in the middle of Maurienne valley, I see it every morning I open my window. The face is better known by climbers since the Mussato climbing guide “Itinéraire d'un grimpeur gate”, where 3 routes are described : “Helena's route” in the little pillar, “Happy Birthday” in the big pillar, and “Choucas Kouille” in the right side of the face... I never climbed on this side, let's go :-)

Hard to remember this route. It was great, but it's mainly the virgin wall at the left side which shout myself! My bolter brain was ON: virgin wall, here a king line pitch, wonderful edges, and here a good place for a belay station, huge pitches... I already want to come back here! I never bolted a multi-pitch route, I had to start it one day, why not tomorrow?

Collect gear, static ropes, bolts, drill. Have a look at photos, using remembrances to find the perfect line... so much gear to carry on the top of the face, we'll do many portage with heavy 25kg packs (2h30, 900m). Thanks to Alex & Vince for helping ;-)

22 August, start at 6H with heavy packs: rope, drill & water...  lightning makes us hesitant... weather must be good, we choose to keep on walking. 8H30, we are at the top of the future route. 9H, the gorge resonates of the first drill shot. Groove edges so deep looks like tufas :-)

Descending on the static rope, searching for the line, edges, belay station... scales and brittle edges are throwing to the bottom of the face, scary but intoxicant!  :-)

Space out the bolts, but not too much... try to put long pitches, for the next marvelous climb. Impressed by the wonders carved by time and erosion... just the edges necessary, nothing superfluous.

At last, the bottom of the face, we just have to climb back 300m of face on the static ropes, clean the edges, try to remember the crux for the next climbing (as soon as possible). It seems endless, we are tired and pitches are very long. Top of the face, glad we did it together, between brothers :-)

New route to try just close to home, dream child is finished.

The comeback is painful : heavy packs and storm !

Now: the name of the route! The name isn't trivial: always a message, a goal, a meaning or just a funny name :-)  Many hard portages: it will be “Chercher Sherpa Pas Cher”, in english “Looking for low cost Sherpa”.

Just a few days before leaving the valley for the south-west in Toulouse, I climbed this wonderful route with my friend Jean-Baptiste. After a first easy pitch, I start for 60m where I break 2 holds with 2 big falls. Next pitch of 60m, the hardest: 7b+/c. And then 2 easier pitches: 7a & 6c

Such a good feeling to climb your own route with a friend on perfect rock!  I'll come back next summer to succeed all pitches. First Ascent is waiting for you climbers...

Have a good climb!

See you next

Sylvain

[gallery link="file"]