Reflections in the Desert
Rab Athlete Gail Brown takes on the challenging ultra-endurance Atlas Mountain race and shares the epiphanies and lessons learned in Morocco's unrelenting mountainous deserts.
At Rab we cherish and celebrate our partnerships with individuals and organisations who share our values. Glenmore Lodge is no exception, and we are delighted to tell the story of this state of the art outdoor training centre, run by dedicated mountain people.
Managing avalanche risks in the mountains
Learn from Zeb Blais, IFMGA Mountain Guide and Owner of Blackbird Mountain Guides, as he shares his expert knowledge on best practices for avoiding avalanche risks. Discover a comprehensive checklist of essential tips and advice to stay safe while enjoying the backcountry.
200m From The Summit
Boris Langenstein travels to Nepal, with his climbing partner Thiphaine to ski a 300m line sweeping down from the summit of Dhaulagiri II. Read their story of trials and challenges as they attempt to reach the summit of this impressive 7000m peak.
The White Giant
I could not help the feeling that something was missing. I had jumped off big cliffs, been chased by scary avalanches, tomahawked down faces, and ridden as fast as I could down narrow couloirs. In the back of my mind however, I had always been drawn towards Jiehkkevarri.
From Summit to Sky: 5 Iconic Eryri routes with paragliding descents
Explore the thrill of combining winter climbing and paragliding in the Snowdonia region of Wales with these favourite "climb and fly" circuits. From the Central Gully on Ysgolion Duon to the Glyderau Ridge and beyond, experience the beauty and excitement of soaring over the mountain peaks.
Sea to Summit
You never quite know what to expect, that’s part of the fun! We spent the better part of a year planning and preparing for the big trip to Greenland. Jacob researched the ares extensively and compiled a PDF guide book of every route established (which was not many!) that he could find.
Life First, Mountains Second
Rab Athlete Lindsey Hamm travels to Charakusa Valley, Pakistan to explore the big walls in the region. "Life first, Mountains second," said Ilays, our tour guide with North Pakistan Adventure (Trekking, Tours, and Expeditions)
Behind the Lens on Dawn Wall
Julia fulfils a lifelong dream of capturing an ascent of Dawn Wall, a 3,000 foot face in the Yosemite National Park, California. She shares her experience of documenting the trip through the lense, from its beginnings in Torredembarra Spain.
Climbing for the climate
Inspired to take action on climate change after an awakening at Everest, Rab athlete Roeland van Oss sets himself the challenge of climbing all 4000m peaks in the Alps, while connecting the climbs by bicycle.
Pyramid of Ice
The best way to tick off 8000m peaks? Do two in a row. After a successful attempt on Kanchenjunga, mountain guide Jon Gupta set his sights on an alpine style ascent of the mountain fortress of Makalu.
Shortly after moving to Washington in 2015, I began scouring the guidebooks for aid lines to free. There’s not many left, and I would later discover that this is not always the best way to find great new free lines. However, the aid line "Midnight Ride" (5.9 A4 600ft) on South Early Winter Spire (SEWS) jumped out. The route climbs a steep and clean face on SEWS just left of the classic route "The Passenger" in the Washington Pass area. For years I had been thinking about checking that face out, but never did until the summer of 2021.
Land of the Cold Sun
I’ve spent years climbing and hiking in the Atlas Mountains and walking by the north face on Tazarhart (3450 m). Its hulking face adorned with sharp rocks, thin ice, with five sharp couloirs reaching up to the ridge, running to 550m. The face fascinated me, and my curiosity piqued. Yet I knew this is beyond my level. Feeling I needed to keep my climbing ambition realistic, I tried to forget about this climb.
The High Life
Leading a team to an 8000m summit demands impeccable organisation, unwavering commitment, and an affinity for the otherworldly landscapes of the loftiest mountains. Jon Gupta shares his guiding experience on the world’s third highest peak.
Around the WURL’D
Chris Fisher is no stranger to hard, back-breaking endurance events on foot. After quitting during ‘Hell Week’, an infamous final component of Navy Seals training, Chris was left with regret. Shorty after an early attempt on the Mosquito-Tenmile traverse in Frisco, CO., Chris set his sights on his next big send in the Wasatch Mountains of Utah.
Catching up with Banff artist Jack Spowart
In the spring of 2022, we began our search for a talented artist to design this year's artwork for the Banff Mountain Festival. We had hundreds of incredible submissions from talented artists across the globe. It was a huge challenge to pick an artist whose work would be featured. It was Jack Spowart, and his intricate illustrations, combining pen, ink and a subtle use of colour that really stood out.
Empty Your Uncertainty Bucket
I can’t tell you how many times local climbers have twisted their faces at me, wondering how it is that I’ve ended up in the UK. So, what in the world is this California girl doing here, of all places?
The Way Less Travelled
Angus Kille, Calum Muskett and Jon Gupta set off on an esoteric Matterhorn route , with all the ingredients of the proper adventure; fatigue, doubt, risk, mistakes and of course Jon’s self-proclaimed good looks and banter.
Home of the Jötunn
Rab Athlete Tor Berge recently journeyed to Jotunheimen for a few days of peak bagging, with his climbing partner Bjørn.
The Elusive Hawk
In December 2021, Canadian climbers Bronwyn Hodgins and Kelsey Watts made the first female ascent of El Gavilan (300m, 13a) in Mexico. This was the final step in Bronwyn’s multi-season effort to re-bolt the original 1990s Jeff Jackson line, making the route safe and accessible for future climbers.
Mentorship in the Mountains
The piece of advice that’s stuck with me since I took my first avalanche course is the importance of mentorship. But mentorship has been hard to come by. Later, I learned that mentors are more likely to take on mentees who remind them of themselves. In an industry where men far outnumber women, could this have something to do with my struggle to find mentors in the industry?
Tales of the Summer Isles
Carved by ice, wind, and waves, the Summer Isles are a small archipelago off the northwest Scottish coast. For kayak leader Will Copestake, they offer solo adventure and solace during a busy summer season.
On a wild and wet quest across a lesser known Cuillin ridge, Sarah Leighton goes in hunt of Rum’s fabled trolls only to encounter some demons of her own.
10 Years Of Testing
After 10 years of pushing his climbing limits while testing gear for us, Kev Shields reflects on the evolution of his mindset during a life on the rock and what being bold means to him.
400k To The Top
Climbing as many vertical feet as one can throughout a single month is not a normal challenge. I went out during the Cirque Series Max Vert October with the intention of climbing over 400,000 ft and breaking a world record.
Searching for something that would push his climbing, Angus Kille found Esclatamasters. A 9a in the Catalan Pyrenees. All consuming, he learnt what it means to be a climber.
Fontainebleau climbing with Jenya Kazbekova
Being bold is about putting yourself out there, challenging your beliefs, and working through the problem. After the competition season ended early, Jenya takes a trip to Fontainbleu to find her next challenge.
An Teallach's Hardest Winter Route Repeated
Guy Robertson and Adam Russell have repeated The Wailing Wall (IX 9) on An Teallach, a route established by the late Martin Moran.
All-in Ice Fest Recap
The All In Ice Fest has brought to the surface, many discussions regarding diversity, equity, and representation specifically for Ice Climbing. David Lee reflects on the first All In Ice Festival.
Cris, Gaizka, and Philipp head to Tredós for a weekend ski-touring getaway. Hoping the early season pow will live up to their expectations, they’ve got a couloir and the North face in their sights.
Reflecting on the 2022 Ouray Ice Fest
Ryan Vachon shares his thoughts from the 2022 Ouray Ice Festival.
East to West: 1000 km of Iceland - Part 2
Tamar and Tjeerd decide to take on an insane project, walking 1000km across Iceland, just as the season is coming to an end. Will they make it?
East to West: 1000 km of Iceland - Part 1
Tamar and Tjeerd decide to take on an insane project, walking 1000km across Iceland, just as the season is coming to an end. Will they make it?
Searching for Secrets
Looking for a unique adventure, Robert, Sebastian, and Anders head to a secret hut in Romsdal. Will they find a sanctuary or a shack?
Steady but Surely: Mount Rundle Traverse
Christine and Sam take on the Mount Rundle Traverse. But have they bitten off more than they can chew?
Sometimes Mountains Say “No”
Big dreams tend to mean big adventures. Krister and Thea take on Store Jægervasstind, with an aim to ski a new couloir. But how long will the weather window hold out?
Paralpinism: A New Way of Enjoying Mountains
Mountains can be enjoyed in a variety of ways. Marta talks about how she's become a multi-sport athlete.
Cave of Dreams
Jeff stumbles across a hidden cave on social media, and seeks it out. He finds a cave of dreams.
Sirens on the Scheidegg Wetterhorn
Bas and Danny are alone on the west pillar of the Scheidegg Wetterhorn. How will they fare on Berner Oberland's wild route?
New Age Raiders
It was a usual winters night in the van. I struggled to sleep with the anticipation of the early alarm weighing heavy on my mind and the stormy weather pounding the skylight just a couple of feet above my face.
Carving Plummer Canyon
Four friends climbed a 7-kilometer trail leading to the remote Plummer Canyon Yurt. They quickly realized they were venturing into one of the continent's most stunning backcountry ski destinations.
Between Paradises Part 2 | Lofoten
After returning from Pakistan, Juho seeks the comfort of the Lofoten Islands and saught to put up a new line.
Between Paradises Part 1 | Pakistan
Juho travelled to Pakistan in search of an unclimbed peak and some high alpine fun. Join his journey through flight delays, crumbly rock, and hot weather.
Tales of Zion Ice
Angela, Bronywn and Sav head to Zion, the place where Angela had spent so much time with her partner. What would she find there, in between all those ponderosa pines? Would the beauty she’d experienced all those years ago still be there?
The Planet’s Sufferfest
As the world's leaders gather to assess and decide the next actions for a global push to limit climate change, we asked Science Presenter, adventurer and Rab ambassador, Huw James, for his take on where we are right now and what he thinks comes next.
Mountain Mentorship: Rab supports AIARE Women’s Mentorship Program
Rab athlete, Amy David, is a big mountain skier. But that doesn’t come without an extensive understanding of snow and avalanches. An ongoing pursuit, that takes a lifetime to grasp… Maybe two lifetimes.
Between Your Hat and Your Feet
The pace of backpacking is slow, but the simplicity of it is unbeatable. Wouldn't you agree?
Skiing Giants - Part 2
Boris and friends go on a trip to Pakistan to explore some high alpine skiing. This adventure entails pleasure, stress, and set backs.
Skiing Giants - Part 1
Boris and friends go on a trip to Pakistan to explore some high alpine skiing. This adventure entails pleasure, stress, and set backs.
Everest | Failing in Style
Decision-making in the mountains is difficult. Do we continue? Do we go back down? When faced with illness, high winds, and doubt, what would you do if the summit was in reach?
Of Autumn & Ice Part 2
Benny, Alex, and Austin explored the Alaskan Hayes Range in autumn to see what they would find. Turns out, they found some seriously good climbing.
Of Autumn & Ice Part 1
Benny, Alex, and Austin explored the Alaskan Hayes Range in autumn to see what they would find. Turns out, they found some seriously good climbing.
Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival 2021
It's nearly time for one of the biggest Mountain festivals on the scene. Find out about tickets and a curated Spotify playlist here.
Catching up with Bryn on the Banff artwork
Preview the new artwork for the 2021 Banff Mountain Film Festival. Artist, Bryn Merrell, has painted a beautiful piece capturing the essence of Banff. Check it out here.
Kendal Mountain Festival 2021 + Rab Film Grant
Find out about 2021's Kendal Mountain Festival and our £10,000 Film Grant.
Bronwyn Sends Golden Gate - Part 2
Canadian climber Bronwyn Hodgins became the third woman to free Golden Gate in Yosemite, California. Read part two, here.
Bronwyn Sends Golden Gate - Part 1
In May 2021, Canadian Rab athlete Bronwyn Hodgins became the third woman to free Golden Gate in Yosemite, California. Read her story here.
Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall put up The Drop Bear, on the Prow Wall of the Stawamus Chief, on July 23rd 2021. This is their story.
Natt Williams completes the Hope 1000
Rab athlete Natt Williams competed in his first adventure race, the Hope 1000. We caught up with him to see how it went. Read it here.
Plastic Isn’t The Problem - Plastic Waste Is
Plastic is a valuable resource. It’s still the most effective and lightest packaging solution for us to store and transport our high-value products, from factory through to customer. It protects garments from being damaged by moisture, dust and dirt.
Looking Back on a Lockdown In The Loft
You won’t find mountain adventures on a training board that has short and accessible as its design principles. But after months of substituting rock for plywood, I’m surprised at what I did find.
Summer in the Sunnmøre Alps
When you think of vacations in Norway, you think fjords, mountains, and sea. Well, Tor and Ine found just this. Read about the awesome Norwegian destination they found, here.
The Journey Of Self-Discovery
It is not about the distance of the race; it is about the journey within. The Cirque Series captures this essence. This inspirational race series started at Brighton Resort, Utah. One of 6 races that tests both the mental and physical strengths of 500 racers.
One Hundred Years of Solitude
Coming out of a long winter of lockdown restrictions in Wales, it seemed apt that our project for this trip was called ‘One Hundred Years of Solitude’, an E8 on the remote cliff of Càrn Mòr in the north-west Highlands.
Getting to know Juho Knuuttila
We caught up with Juho, a dedicated Finnish climber, Juho as he heads of to the Karakorum for some new routing.
Slipping Through the Cracks
I'm slipping... There’s a thin layer of dirt that covers everything: the climb, the gear, my whole body. My throat is dry, and my chest is heaving.
In The Wake of Bandits
It’s 6am when the alarm starts to ring in the van. It’s still dark outside. The crisp, fresh air starkly contrasting the comfort inside our warm sleeping bags. Cristina reaches for her phone and turns the alarm off, wishing she had had a few more hours to sleep.
Our First Year of Fair Wear Membership
Fair Wear awarded us the “Good” status after only 12 months of membership. We’re aiming for better though.
Watch Ocean to Asgard
Jacob Cook and Bronwyn Hodgins went on an epic 40-day trip to Baffin Island. Their tale is one of adventure, new routing, and pink flamingos...
About priorities, injuries and identity
“I just looked at your MRI… and I had to triple-check I had the correct patient. The ankle on there looked like it belonged to a 70-year old” the doctor told me as he walked into the exam room. I’d been limping for nearly 6 months, since a bad sprain the previous summer, and had finally given in the wise counsel of my girlfriend and come to see a specialist.
More Sand Than Stone
Three hundred feet up the wall I weighted my toes on dime-sized sandstone edges. I was reminded of my ballet days on pointe -- the pain was torturous.
Hayden Jamieson climbs Freerider in a day
On May 9th, Hayden Jamieson and Aaron Livingston free climbed El Cap’s Freerider in under 22 hours. This had been a long term goal for Rab athlete Hayden. It is a benchmark in big wall free climbing. And their decision to both free climb the route makes it all the more impressive.
It was the start of January 2019. The world had no idea what was about to hit it. It was only weeks later that the World Health Organization would declare the outbreak as a global health emergency, and a few months later that the virus would hit the Americas. All eight of us sat on the big bed, gossiping about boys, relationships, menstrual cycles, tinder dates… the whole deal. We took turns sharing stories while the rest listened curiously, giggling like little girls at a sleepover. This was nothing like any climbing trip I’d ever been on.
Recycled Down - What happens to your old down products?
You probably have one: a sleeping bag, down jacket, maybe your duvet or pillow is down filled. If not, you've certainly come across a down filled item. Down has been used as an insulation filling for generations. It's kept people warm at night, and explorers alive in the coldest conditions. But what happens to it all once you're done? Where does it go?
Sylvain Thiabud opens Montecristo 4
Rab Athlete Sylvain Thiabaud opens Montecristo N°4, a new mixed route in Maurienne’s secret valley.
Solace in Siurana
In October of 2020, my friends and I were looking for new places to visit to celebrate that we could travel again after the first COVID-19 lockdown in Spain. We had been climbing a lot around Barcelona but we felt like it was time to organize a bigger trip.
Are You Tough Enough?
I don't remember if I read it in a book or saw it in a movie, but it has always fascinated me that a trip doesn't start when you get your packs ready, but when you dream it for the first time. In my case, the trip to Madagascar began in 2007 after the radical opening of the route “Hijos de la Pedri” in Tsaranoro valley by my inspiring friends Talo and Palan Martin.
Jessy Pivier climbs Epéna North Face
It all started exactly 27 years ago, when – during his first adventures in this North face – Manu Pellissier began to dream of a mixed line through this huge limestone face. Luc Mongellaz had also visited this face already, attempting the first winter ascent of the North West pillar in 2017, which was stopped just below the summit after a fall of his partner.
Chasing Dog Days
Follow Rab athlete Greg Boswell and Marz McInnes (plus Floki and Kida) as they chase a spell of unusually good weather around the Highlands, and experience everything that Scotland has to offer.
Preparing for the Lake Baikal Ice Skating Expedition – Episode #4
The Arctic is not for everyone. The terrain is often barren, with few places to hide from the elements. The cold bites and can be at times quite overwhelming. Storms, white-outs, avalanches, crevasses. With -26°C as our warmest night, a group of four arctic explorers and me set out to train for the worst.
The Easy Way Down
Patience is a virtue, or so I’m told. In the high mountains I’m normally on the move constantly and it seems unusual to be stood still, waiting for the perfect moment. The fabric on my paraglider is still rustling as a katabatic wind blows gently down the glacier trying to dislodge the light fabric from its delicate perch on the frozen snow slope.
Call Of The Sirens
In February 2017, Bronwyn and I packed our lives into our red van and drove 4000km across the Canadian winter-scape to Squamish, BC. We’d never even visited the town but decided it would be our new home - granite pilgrims from the East.
Preparing for the Lake Baikal Ice Skating Expedition – Episode #3
An entire winter in Swedish Lapland? Why not? Me and my expedition partner Gerard had been ice-skating and winter camping for weeks above the Arctic Circle, but still it felt like I only just got a small taste of what this remote part of Europe has to offer.
Meet the Rab Ski Athlete Team
From our birthplace in the Scottish Highlands to our playground in the mountains of the world, we thrive in the worst that mother nature can dish out. With our Khroma collection, we’ve taken our years of experience, skill and knowledge in making mountain clothing that performs in all conditions and applied that to ski mountaineering apparel.
Lake District Rock Climbing Styles
Lake District rock climbing offers something for everyone. From beginner trad climbs through to some of the hardest routes in the country, there is both easily accessible, roadside cragging and long days on the mountain crags. The bouldering also gives a wide variety of rock types, grades, and locations, and there is quality sport climbing in the South Lakes too.
Horse-accessed Ski Touring in British Columbia
“How do we put the skis on Pal?” I wonder aloud as I look over the muscular dun colored gelding who will be our packhorse. Pal huffs quietly and gives me a patient look that says, “Take as long as you want, I’m in no rush to get up that mountain.”
An Arctic Adventure
In January 2020, ambassador Anna Blackwell travelled to Arctic Sweden. Once there, despite very little experience on skis, she found herself skiing into the backcountry for a multi-day camping trip with a friend.
Preparing for the Lake Baikal Ice Skating Expedition – Episode #2
Autumn in Sápmi – better known as Lapland – can be quite spectacular. A vivid spectrum of oranges, reds and yellows breaks through the snow that is covering the surface only so slightly. Snow is falling late this year, giving us time to test our expedition kit on the frozen lakes of northern Sweden.
Rab wins The Great Outdoors Magazine’s Best Brand Reader Award 2020!
We are extremely thrilled to have won The Great Outdoors Magazine’s Best Brand Reader Awards for the fourth year running!
Getting Your Kids into Climbing
It’s surely every climber’s dream when facing parenthood – now I’ll be able to take my kids climbing (or sometimes – now I’m going to have to if I ever want to get on the rock again!) When and how can be fraught with options and the risk of putting them off for life! Every child is different, and how and at what stage you introduce your kids to climbing will depend on your own experience and confidence. Here are some thoughts and top tips from my own experience with my daughters and working with client families.
Psycho Bianco Ridge: Dutch Expedition Academy in Bernina
The Bianco Ridge on Piz Bernina (4.048m) is a dream route for many climbers. Just like the photogenic west-east traverse of Piz Palü (3.905m). Even better would be to link up both ridge routes and combine them into one long tour. In spite of a somewhat unstable weather forecast the young Dutch Expedition Academy team gave it a try. It all turned out a little different than expected, but was an unforgettable day.
Skiing Iceland: In-Between the Storms
We started our trip to Iceland in Munich in March 2020. During the approach to Reykjavik, our noses were sticking to the window of the airplane. The view over the first snow-covered hills reaching all the way down to the shore was incredibly impressive. I could already imagine the first turns in the untouched snow.
Over the Edge: Q&A
To celebrate five years of Women’s Trad Festival, Rab commissioned the film ‘Over the Edge’ to tell the story of the women behind the sell-out festival.
Kendal Mountain Festival 2020
At Rab and Lowe Alpine we’re delighted to continue our partnership with Kendal Mountain Festival, which is fully digital this year.
Preparing for the Lake Baikal Ice Skating Expedition – Episode #1
Most of the fun in any expedition is in the preparation. This isn’t just my opinion, it’s been proven scientifically. With this in mind, I try to extend the preparation process for our Lake Baikal (RU) traverse as much as possible. It’s too much fun!
Banff Film Festival Round Up
Adventure film season is upon us and the Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival has gone digital this year. With so many inspiring stories being told, we’re delighted to share the trailers of Rab supported athletes whose adventure films have been accepted into the festival.
Khroma Kinetic Jacket Wins Editors' Choice Award
We are delighted to announce that Backcountry Magazine honoured our Khroma Kinetic Jacket with an Editors’ Choice award ahead of the 2020-21 winter season!
Climbing Between Closing Borders
It all started with a plan. A plan to get out again and finally touch some rock.
DeWilde Style : New Route in Alaska’s Hayes Range
When I arrived in Alaska for the first time four years ago, my mother and I flew through the mountains. I remember how good they looked, but I wasn’t ready for an Alaskan-level mountain. They all looked so big, steep, and gnarly, even the small ones. I was an amateur at the time, but was so enthralled by what I saw that yet again, as I have done before, I pushed everything in my life away and decided to move to Alaska the next spring. I wanted an authentic relationship with the land and for the last four summers I’ve grown just that.
To celebrate National #GetOutsideDay from Ordnance Survey on 27th September, we’re giving you the chance to win a brand new Microlight jacket and an Edge backpack.
Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival 2020
We at Rab are delighted to continue our partnership with the Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival for a fourth year.
John Fellows: Behind the Design
As title sponsor of the Banff Film Festival, Rab has worked closely with John Fellows for the past three years to create bespoke designs for the official festival t-shirts. We wanted to find an artist who would capture the same feeling and connection to the outdoors we all share while experiencing the stories that are told during the festival.
Designing for Sustainable Performance
Years of experience go into the design, creation and realisation of all of our products. Behind this stands a deep respect and love for the mountains we play, explore and adventure in. Inspired by this, our AW20 collection is devoted to everything we’re passionate about – performance, technology and the environment.
Aiguille Dibona - The Needle in the Blue
Honza Navratil fell in love with Aiguille Dibona after receiving a message from his friend. In August, he spent a week exploring the Ecrins National Park in the French Alps where he ascended the needle of Aiguille Dibona.
The Backwards Art of Progress
“Have you always progressed in your climbing?” I was asked by my friend, Louis, at our local climbing wall. As we were talking about grades, it would have been easy to answer that my progression had been steady up to a point.
RabAtHome Competition Highlights
Just after the global lockdown was implemented, we launched our #RabAtHome competition. We wanted to do something that everyone could get involved in, to keep spirits high and find adventure at home during an uncertain time. We asked our community to post a flat lay photo using inspiration from their Rab clothing, outdoor kit and indoor space for the chance to win a kitbag full of Rab gear.
Local Climbs: The Quarryman
In the first of our series of Local Climbs, Angus Kille tackles the iconic Quarryman for a big-wall training challenge just five miles from home.
Time to Reminisce – Climbing Norway’s National Mountain
My home is Bergen, Norway – otherwise known as the city between the seven mountains. It is here that I grew up with a family who took me to the mountains or the cabin every weekend and every holiday. With that, I was trained from a very early age to take active breaks from a busy everyday life.
Mountain Guiding During COVID-19
This winter season was about guiding people in the mountains all around the world. I am a full-time mountain guide and had a lot of exciting plans. Until a few weeks ago I enjoyed every second of my profession but due to the coronavirus and the measures that were taken, I was forced to cancel my plans and stay at my current home in Austria. So how does that work for someone like me, who is used to spend his time in the biggest office possible almost 24/7?
The Big Three – Climbing in South Island
I’m not a big fan of waking up early, yet I seem to have chosen a lifestyle and career where my phone alarm has seven different wake-up calls set between midnight and 6am. It’s the hours of darkness that are the worst bit, trudging across glaciers when it’s cold, but still warm enough for you to work up a sweat that mingles with your sun cream.
Dutch Expedition Academy: Coping During COVID-19
In self-isolation for over two weeks now, it is strange to remember what I was doing exactly one month ago. Monday morning, 5 A.M. We had just woken up from a cold night in the winter hut of the Refuge d’Alpe de Villar d’Arène in the French Alps. A last cup of tea, a final glance at our map, I quickly stuffed some remaining gear in my pack.
Tom Randall - Brown Cows Over Utah
Crack climbing, for me, has been all about performance for a really long time. I’ve been on that incessant drive to push my own standards, establish things that are at the limit of the genre and in the process of that, do quite a few first ascents!
Home Climbing Exercises with Lattice Training
Since getting out to the crag or your local climbing wall isn’t possible at the moment, we’ve compiled some of the great climbing training videos produced by our friends at Lattice Training which cover a series of exercises you can do at home.
Catalonia - A Home Away From Home
One of the things I love about climbing is that it takes you to some amazing locations. I’ve been lucky enough to climb throughout Europe as well as in Australia and the United States.Cheap flights and a wealth of information online means that few climbing destinations are secret these days and many places now have a truly international feel with climbers coming from all over the globe in search of good rock.
How to enjoy running
Why do you run? Four words that for me would be the start of a river of reasons that could eventually flood into a book. This is probably the same for you too. On one level it may be simple, to move and stay fit. It may be to socialise. To get some headspace after a long day at work. It may be all three and then three hundred more.
Andrea Mason - Sea to Summit Challenge
On Monday 9th September 2019 I set out to achieve what most people thought would be impossible: swim 34km across the English Channel, cycle 900km across France to the foot of Mont Blanc and then climb to the summit of the tallest mountain in Western Europe – all in just 5 days. If I’m honest, it still sounds completely crazy,
Climbing, Life and Community During the Pandemic
Suddenly our lives are turned upside down. The more events accelerate around the globe with the spread of COVID-19, the more our everyday life is slowed down. Our range of motion, leisure activities and personal encounters are minimized. Of course, this also determines my climbing, my everyday life and my family routine.
Greg Boswell - Ice Climbing in Lofoten
At the end of January, Jeff Mercier and I met up in the north of Norway for two weeks of hunting winter climbs above the Arctic Circle. Two seasons ago we did a similar trip to Senja Island, where we managed to climb a bunch of outstanding new routes and witnessed some amazing views and landscapes.
Skiing in Lebanon – A Journey through History
Our journey starts in the village Byblos/Jubail, an old port on the Mediterranean Sea just north of Beirut. In 2850 b.c. Byblos was a colony of Egypt and an important trading place. Soon we realize that this will not be an ordinary tourist trip but also a journey through the history of a country of which we only know little.
Bronwyn Hodgins - Freerider
Le 8 novembre 2018, je me tenais au sommet de El Capitan à Yosemite, en Californie, après avoir escaladé la voie « Freerider » en libre en 5 jours. Soutenue par Jacob, j’ai progressé sur les longueurs crux en tête et utilisé la corde seulement trois fois sur les 900 mètres d’ascension, en descendant et réussissant toutes les longueurs suivantes. Cela m’a presque semblé facile ! Mais vraiment, cela n’a rien eu de facile. Cela a été un combat, un combat épique qui a duré pas moins de 4 années...
Expédition à la recherche du Star Dust
Il est 23 heures dans le centre des Andes argentines. J’essaie de construire le modèle réduit de l’avion Avro Lancastrian à la lumière de ma lampe frontale, assis, les jambes croisées, à 4 000 m d'altitude.
Projet 282 - Deuxième Partie
La crête de Cuillin, sur l’île de Skye, est redoutée par bon nombre de grimpeurs de munros potentiels, et j’en faisais clairement partie. Surnommé le « Inn Pin » (aussi connu comme « the Inaccesible Pinnacle », en français « le sommet inaccessible »), c’est le seul munro qui nécessite d’être équipé d’une corde, et bien que son ascension ne soit pas particulièrement difficile en soit, elle se situe certainement en dehors de la zone de confort de nombreux randonneurs. Même si cette ascension n’est pas très technique, comme c'est le cas pour de nombreuses autres parties de la crête de Cuillin, la véritable mise à l’épreuve consiste à gérer l’exposition, et on comprend aisément en quoi la moindre erreur pourrait être fatale. La crête était pour moi un réel sujet d’inquiétude, compte tenu du fait que j’étais habituellement seule. Comment allais-je m’y prendre ?
Project 282 - Part Two
The Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye strikes fear into the hearts of many would-be Munroists, and I was certainly amongst them. The infamous Inaccessible Pinnacle (the ‘Inn Pin’) is the only Munro which requires the use of a rope and, although not a particularly challenging rock climb per se, it is certainly outside the comfort zone of ma
Projet 282 - Partie Un
Selon un vieux proverbe chinois, un voyage de 1 000 lieues commence toujours par un premier pas. J’y ai souvent pensé l’été où je me suis lancée dans le projet 282, passant près de quatre mois à gravir tous les munros d'Écosse, d’une seule traite, sans aucune assistance, et à la seule force de mes jambes. À plusieurs reprises, je me suis prise à paniquer, me disant que je m’étais peut-être lancé un défi un peu trop ambitieux. Mais il suffisait finalement de diviser le parcours en petites étapes, et de m’y attaquer une à une.
Project 282 - Part One
There is an old Chinese proverb which says that a journey of 1,000 miles begins with a single step. This became something that I thought about many times over the summer as I undertook Project 282: almost four months spent climbing all of Scotland’s Munros, in one go; unsupported and self-propelled.
Senja - Rentrer à la maison
Greg Boswell et Jeff Mercier ont probablement battu le record de vitesse d’ouverture de nouvelles voies d’hiver lorsqu’ils ont visité l’île de Senja, située au large de la côte nord-ouest de la Norvège, en février 2018. L’alignement des étoiles, un ensemble de bonnes conditions, une longue période d’éclaircie et l’expérience des deux grimpeurs leur ont permis d’escalader des kilomètres de terrains montagneux verticaux magnifiques.
Rab au festival du film de montagne de Banff (Banff Mountain Film Festival) 2018
Le festival du film et du livre de montagne de Banff Centre est le plus grand festival de montagne d’Amérique du Nord. Le festival a lieu entre le 27 octobre et le 4 novembre et promet neuf journées pleines de récits de voyages dans des zones reculées, d’expéditions extraordinaires et d’aventures d’avant-garde, racontés par des aventuriers, des écrivains, des photographes et des réalisateurs venant des quatre coins du monde.
Nasim Eshqi a reçu le prix du Roi Albert Ier (King Albert I Award)
L’athlète Rab Nasim Eshqi s’est vue décerner le prix du Roi Albert Ier (King Albert I Memorial Award), rejoignant ainsi le cercle très fermé des 56 autres personnes ayant eu l’honneur de le recevoir. Ce prix récompense les « personnes ou les institutions qui se sont distinguées grâce à leur contribution exceptionnelle et durable aux environnements montagneux du monde entier. »
Extrait exclusif du livre intitulé « Alpenglow » (Lueur alpine)
Ben Tibbetts a dédié ces six dernières années à l’ascension de l’ensemble des 82 sommets de plus de 4 000 m des Alpes. Il a documenté son voyage dans son nouveau livre, intitulé « Alpenglow » (Lueur alpine). Avec son livre contenant sa photographie récompensée, des illustrations à la main et un récit détaillé de son aventure, Ben a réussi à créer l’un des meilleurs recueils que l’on peut trouver sur la montagne. Dans cet article, il partage avec nous un extrait du dernier chapitre de son livre, qui nous donne un avant-goût de son œuvre. (Le livre est disponible en précommande jusqu’au 28 novembre sur « Kickstarter » ICI)
49° au Sud : Là où les rêves existent encore
La Patagonie est un endroit intense. Intense à cause de son climat extrême et capricieux. Intense du fait de ses proportions sans commune mesure à la fois verticales et horizontales. Et intense à cause des expériences que l’on est amené à vivre l
Greg Boswell - Nouvelles voies en Alaska
De retour depuis peu de son séjour d’escalade sur le glacier Buckskin, en Alaska, Greg Boswell est un athlète de Rab qui est quelque peu, disons, « effervescent ». Greg et son partenaire d’escalade, Will Sim, ont eu la chance de connaître les conditions parfaites, ce qui est très rare, en Alaska. Une période de forte pression continue a permis à l’équipe d’escalader non pas une, mais deux voies. Nous avons rencontré Greg afin d’en savoir plus sur son séjour en Alaska, son premier dans cette région du monde, mais aussi pour savoir comment il a vécu le fait de pouvoir explorer et pratiquer l’escalade dans une zone du monde aussi atypique.
Jeff Shapiro - Pneuma
Première ascension de la face Sud de Brammah II (6 486 m) Au début de l’année 2016, j’ai retrouvé des photos de la dernière expédition que j’ai entrepris avec mon colocataire et partenaire d’escalade habituel, Chris Gibisch. Trop de temps s’était écoulé depuis notre expérience en Chine Occidentale et après avoir regardé toutes ces photos et passé en revue nos souvenirs, j’ai fini par appeler Chris en lui disant : « Mec... Je pense qu’il est grand temps d’aller quelque part. »
Angela VanWiemeersch - Le Glacier Matanuska
Cam McLeod est un photographe basé à Ogden, dans l’Utah. L’année dernière, en août, Cam et l’athlète de Rab Angela VanWiemeersch sont partis explorer le Glacier de Matanuska, en Alaska, afin de capturer ses paysages merveilleux. Cam partage ici avec nous ce qui l’a inspiré à entreprendre ce voyage.
5 heures du matin : nos sacs sont prêts et nous marchons jusqu'à la base de la Cima Piccola, dans les Tre Cime di Lavaredo, en plein cœur des Dolomites italiennes. Je n'étais pas revenu ici depuis que Neil et moi avions escaladé les voies de Comici et Cassin, en 2004. Lors de ce voyage, Andy et moi avions dû courir la veille, depuis Bregaglia, à cause du mauvais temps. Il faut être prêt à suivre la météo quand vous n'avez que 9 jours de vacances. Nous sommes donc allés à la Cima Piccola, en espérant trouver quelques rochers secs.
Angela VanWiemeersch - Sacrifices
La #vanlife (vie dans un van), ça a tout de la vie rêvée, vous ne trouvez pas ? Des hivers et des étés entiers à escalader les voies les plus emblématiques du monde, à découvrir des cultures variées et à vivre en marge de la société. Tout le monde quitterait son emploi pour vivre cette vie-là, n’est-ce pas ? Peut-être. Ou pas. Ce que la plupart des gens ne voient pas, ce sont les sacrifices et les compromis que ces athlètes font pour pouvoir avoir ce style de vie. Un grimpeur professionnel, pleinement impliqué dans son travail, doit parcourir des kilomètres tous les jours, quelle que soit la période de l’année pour entretenir sa forme physique, même si le climat n’est parfois pas coopératif et qu'il doit se rendre à la salle de sport, mais comment faire lorsqu’on se réveille chaque jour dans un endroit différent ?
Mark Hines : La Traversée du Nord Glacé
Après avoir exploré le Nord du Canada au cours de ses nombreuses courses et expéditions en solitaire, Mark Hines est retourné au Yukon cette année pour explorer la région à vélo, cette fois. Son souhait de connecter l'océan Arctique au Pacifique l’a fait traverser les territoires du Yukon et de la Colombie Britannique.
La première fois que j’ai vu le versant nord du Triglav, c’était dans le livre de Reinhold Messner, « The Big Walls (Les grandes parois) », quand j’avais 19 ans. Cette montagne et ce versant m’ont depuis fasciné.
Le Totem Pole défie les superlatifs autant que les éléments. S’il y a un élément qui n’aurait jamais dû exister : c’est bien celui-là. Faisant 60 m de haut et 4 m de large, ce grand monolithe semble mettre au défi la mer déchaînée qui l’entoure. Pourtant, il est bel et bien là. Fier, grand et improbable, il représente un défi pour tout grimpeur sur rochers qui se respecte, qui aime l’aventure et qui a du cran.
Sylvain Thiabaud – Un projet de plus à retirer de la liste
On est le dimanche 18 juin et nous sommes en train de boire le café au soleil, avec Leon, le gérant du refuge de Pombie, situé en face du pic du Midi d'Ossau. Je suis avec mon ami, Matthias et nous ne réalisons toujours pas que, la veille, nous avons bouclé l'énorme projet, que nous avions préparé depuis très longtemps. Le café a même meilleur goût aujourd'hui, grâce à ce succès.
Fin août, l'athlète de Rab Nasim Eshqi et Cristina Pogacean se sont rendus dans la région des villes de Jammu et Kashmir, Zanskar, en Inde, pour tenter l'ascension H17, un sommet vierge situé au confluent du Haptal Tokpo et du Chhogo Tok
Le Festival des Remarkables
Pour tous ceux qui ne connaissent pas cette région, la Nouvelle-Zélande est probablement mieux connue, depuis quelques temps, sous le nom de Terre du Milieu. Une association qui a été créée lorsque ces îles spectaculaires sont devenues le décor cinématographique du récit épique de Tolkien.
Calculer le risque - avalanche au Canada
J’en suis à quatre passages et je viens juste de dégager la courbe la plus importante de la pente lorsque je vois la cassure partant de l’extrémité avant de mon ski jusqu’en bas. Pas très grosse je pense, je suis sûre que l’avalanche est superficielle et il est même peu probable qu’elle se propage dans une vraie plaque qui bouge. Cinq minutes plus tôt, j’avais creusé un puits dans la neige avec mon co-équipier et la seule couche fragile que nous avions trouvée à 10 cm de profondeur était une surface givrée.
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