A world-class competition climber, Jenya is pushing her boundaries both in comps and outdoors.
Jenya is a professional athlete from Ukraine with a passion for competition and outdoor climbing. She's currently the best female competition climber from Ukraine, ranking 7th in the 2019 Boulder world ranking.
While her parents were world class climbers, as a kid, Jenya's talent became clear, beating a couple of world records (at the time), climbing her first 8a at the age of 11 and first 8b+ at the age of 13. Winning her first Youth World Champion title in 2010 opened the world of competition climbing to her. Jenya loves comps as she gets to overcome personal limits and learn every time. In 2019, Jenya placed 4th at the World Championships in Japan and she realised just how much more potential she has to unlock.
As much as she loves competitions, she cannot imagine her life without rock climbing. “Outdoor climbing is the best way to connect with yourself” - she says. The crag in Crimea will always be her second home, as she spent most of her childhood on that limestone cliff. She climbed most of her hardest ascents there which shows how dear to her heart the place is. It’s hard not to fall in love with Red Stone (a crag in Crimea). It's surrounded by a beautiful forest and you can walk to the sea. Nowadays, living partially in Frankenjura (Germany) she is excited to soon call it her home crag.
Visiting astonishing places and pushing her limits is part of Jenya’s process as a climber. By climbing her first 8c+ “Gullich” in 2018, she is on her way to reaching the next level.
Photo credit: ©Jan Virt (portrait image) / © Alexander Megos (climbing image)
Best competition results
• World Championship in Hachioji, Japan 2019 – 4th place (bouldering)
• Bouldering World Cup in Munich, Germany 2019 – 5th place
• Lead World Cup in Xiamen, China 2019 – 8th place
• Top 10 Bouldering World Ranking 2019
• Lead World Cup in Arco, Italy 2018 – 7th place
• Ukrainian National Championships 2012 – 2020 – 1st place
Rock climbing accomplishments
First 8a climbed in the age of 11 in 2007 “Vremya CH” Red Stone, Crimea
First 8b+ climbed in the age of 13 “Parallel’niy mir” Red Stone, Crimea
• 8c+ “Gullich” Red Stone, Crimea 2018 (redpoint)
• 8c/c+ “Mountain Rock Trip” Red Stone, Crimea 2019 (redpoint)
• 8c “Skif” Nikita, Crimea 2017 (redpoint)
• 8b+ «Queeeel dich, du Sau » Frankenjura, Germany 2019 (Second go)
• 8b+ « Father & Son» Frankenjura, Germany 2020