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In an 8 day round-trip, the British team of Malcolm Bass, Guy Buckingham and Paul Figg have made the successful first ascent of a new line on Janhukot (6,805m), a previously unclimbed summit in the Garhwal Himalaya.

Located at the upper end of the Gangotri Glacier, Janhukot is a remote summit with difficult access across 19km of glacial terrain from basecamp. At least eight previous expeditions have been turned back short of the summit, including Malcolm who had previously attempted the line with Simon Yearsley in 2014. Thanks to the learning from these previous expeditions and despite encountering some thoroughly Scottish conditions on route, the team were able to successfully reach the summit on the 8th of June.

The new route, which tackles the mountain’s South-West buttress features sections of technical climbing interspersed with a number of possible bivis and finishing via a corniced and unprotectable ridge traverse to the summit. This final section of climbing provided the most worrying moment of the ascent when Malcolm fell part way through the cornice and getting a hair-raising view back to the valley floor before extracting himself.

Catastrophe averted and safely on the summit, the team took a moment to celebrate their achievement before descending the mountain via the South East ridge.

Rab would like to congratulate Malcolm, Guy and Paul on a first ascent in first-class style and look forward to sharing more about the expedition in the coming months.


First ascent of Janhukot 6805m, Gangotri Region, Garwhal Himalaya, India. Via south west buttress to south ridge. 3000m, 1700m vertical. ED1. Scottish IV.

Descent via south ridge to south east ridge to couloir into eastern glacial basin.

3 June to 7 June 2018

Climbers: Malcolm Bass, Guy Buckingham, Paul Figg

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