I don’t believe that the Frankenjura needs any introduction… As a sport-climbing venue it has been on the map for decades thanks to climbers like Güllich, Albert, Sykora, Löw, Thon, and many more.
Located in the southeast of Germany, it’s only a six-hours drive from where my girlfriend and I live. Just perfect! After our ten-months trip to Spain last year we didn’t want to go far this year.
So we started our trip in Munich where the World Championship in Bouldering took place. Although I’ve seen a couple of World Cups in Vienna during the last years, I had never seen Adam Ondra climb in real life. Take it from me: to see him take the title –controlling his mind and body like that- it was just unreal. Un altro planeta. At the women’s Jule Wurm took the title on home-soil… and the crowd roared…
Great atmosphere, catching up with friends from all over Europe; it was a wonderful evening.
After that we dashed to the centre of the Frankenjura, where we rented a place close to Pottenstein. Time to get our hands on some rock!
Enter the rain… We spent almost a week driving around; looking for dry routes to try, visiting neighbouring cities; we even went to the bouldering gym Café Kraft once.
In the last week I still wanted to try and climb a route called “Odd Fellows”, but with a battered left index finger I could only have one good go a day. Knowing that I could only try it once felt a bit too pressuring to me. (on a side note: the right index finger healed quickly, the left never did...)
So the day I left “Odd Fellows” for what it was, we bumped into Nico again and we ended up underneath “Roof Warrior”, a route that I tried earlier. This time I got lucky! Despite the rain from the week before it was dryer than ever. I took off just to try the moves again and surprised myself by clipping the chain.
All in all it was a successful trip and apart from those 8c’s I was able to send a bunch of 8a and b’s at high pace. Frankenjura is great and I can’t wait to go back!