I first heard about the route « état de choc » a long time ago.. the Portalet is known as “the little Yosemite” and after my family trip in Val d’Orco, it would a nice places to lock Friends and fingers !!

As often, we decide to go and climb there after a good climbing day, with a big fresh glass of beer in our damaged hands.. My friend Sebastien Ratel wanted to try a hard route in the Portalet (Ave Cesar, 7c) with his friend Renaud and tells me to climb to the left of the route “état de choc”, 300m, 7b which is awesome !

Next week, start from Chamonix early in the morning, 1H30 driving, 1000m+ walking just under this fantastic granite pillar and then start in the loose pedestal of the face. I climb with Sylvain “Chuchu” Rechu who shouts all the time when he’s climbing..

The route is just fantastic : perfect cracks, huge pitches, no bolts except at belay stations, Friends in the crack 10m on the right side.. encouragements, falls, jokes.. that’s perfect !!

We leave all the gear at the bottom of the face and walk to the Orny refuge for a good dinner and a long night, because everybody was exhausted !!

The second day, Seb & Renaud went back into Ave Cesar but didn’t manage to free it completely.. We choose to discover the other face of the pillar with Chuchu in “Esprit de clocher”, 200m, 7a

Two magic days with friends in a beautiful place, king lines, cracks and many other routes.. I’ll definitively come back here, that much I know.[:us]I first heard about the route « état de choc » a long time ago.. the Portalet is known as “the little Yosemite” and after my family trip in Val d’Orco, it would a nice places to lock Friends and fingers !!

As often, we decide to go and climb there after a good climbing day, with a big fresh glass of beer in our damaged hands.. My friend Sebastien Ratel wanted to try a hard route in the Portalet (Ave Cesar, 7c) with his friend Renaud and tells me to climb to the left of the route “état de choc”, 300m, 7b which is awesome !

Next week, start from Chamonix early in the morning, 1H30 driving, 1000m+ walking just under this fantastic granite pillar and then start in the loose pedestal of the face. I climb with Sylvain “Chuchu” Rechu who shouts all the time when he’s climbing..

The route is just fantastic : perfect cracks, huge pitches, no bolts except at belay stations, Friends in the crack 10m on the right side.. encouragements, falls, jokes.. that’s perfect !!

We leave all the gear at the bottom of the face and walk to the Orny refuge for a good dinner and a long night, because everybody was exhausted !!

The second day, Seb & Renaud went back into Ave Cesar but didn’t manage to free it completely.. We choose to discover the other face of the pillar with Chuchu in “Esprit de clocher”, 200m, 7a

Two magic days with friends in a beautiful place, king lines, cracks and many other routes.. I’ll definitively come back here, that much I know.

Sylvain Thiabaut