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This time our aim was to do something interesting…mixed climbing!

[caption id="attachment_5996" align="aligncenter" width="450"]West face of Cântaro Magro, a playground for mixed climbing. West face of Cântaro Magro, a playground for mixed climbing.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_5997" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Daniela in one of the nicest moves of the new route opened on the 23rd of February, “Sofrer até doer” (“To suffer until it hurts”) Daniela in one of the nicest moves of the new route opened on the 23rd of February, “Sofrer até doer” (“To suffer until it hurts”)[/caption]

There are certain well-defined lines that still wander through my head. Projects postponed awaiting the best physical and psychological condition to be climbed. Serra da Estrela still has a large amount of challenges dependent only on the decision of the right climber, at the accurate moment.

One of those “accurate moments” happened on the last 22nd of February.

We descended to the West Face Cântaro Magro finding a spectacularly hard snow. The good conditions anticipated a good day for vertical adventures.

[caption id="attachment_5998" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Descending, hoping to find the "Big one". Descending, hoping to find the "Big one".[/caption]

A quick search looking for a line that would awake our inspiration got us in the bottom of a narrow goullote, which split an enormous slab on a main wall. We had just found the most logical start for a new route, an easy warm up pitch for the difficulties that we guessed were coming.

[caption id="attachment_5999" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Daniela on the easy beginning of the new line. Daniela on the easy beginning of the new line.[/caption]

The second pitch became a hard exercise to manage, it became impossible for me to red point it, not so much because of the intensity of the movements, but because of the difficulty in placing good protections while trying to hang on some really physical and precarious hooks on cracks. Eventually, I managed to place some decent cams and hexcentrics in a large and tricky crack, atypical in the perfect granite of Serra da Estrela.

image6

[caption id="attachment_6001" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Two moments on the second pitch, one of the hardest of the route, a potential M7 Two moments on the second pitch, one of the hardest of the route, a potential M7[/caption]

Among some breaks to rest, all the movements were solved.

A pretty smiling Daniela emerged at the belay, after climbing all the pitch and finding that the workouts directed to hard climbing were producing very positive results.

[caption id="attachment_6002" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela close to the belay after confirming the good results of hard weekdays workouts. Daniela close to the belay after confirming the good results of hard weekdays workouts.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_6003" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela arriving to the comfortable belay of the second pitch, one of the hardest of that day. Daniela arriving to the comfortable belay of the second pitch, one of the hardest of that day.[/caption]

A few easy pitches took us to higher ground on the West Face, until we faced the intimidating and vertical upper wall. Some promising cracks cut the wall from bottom to top, and that filled up our expectations. We were hoping to find good powerful rock hookings and - most importantly - a good chance to place convenient protections.

[caption id="attachment_6004" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Paulo starting the easy third pitch. Paulo starting the easy third pitch.[/caption]

What followed was an athletic climb, once again interrupted by one or two moments to “relax”, useful for analyzing higher ground. After some time, two drained arms hooked the ice-tools in the last clumps of frozen grass and snow, to raise a tired body and throw it into a comfortable and perfect spot to place the belay. A few minutes later in relief, I admired the culmination of that magnificent pitch while belaying my partner.

[caption id="attachment_6006" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Two moments on the sixth pitch, one of the hardest, spectacular! Two moments on the sixth pitch, one of the hardest, spectacular![/caption] [caption id="attachment_6007" align="aligncenter" width="400"]After the crux of the sixth pitch, a proposal of M7, with good rock hooking placements and the promise of swollen forearms. After the crux of the sixth pitch, a proposal of M7, with good rock hooking placements and the promise of swollen forearms.[/caption]

Daniela was giving everything to free climb that pitch and in the process, she climbed as fast as her strength allowed her, trying to overcome the shadow projected on the opposite rock face. The shadow also “climbed”, as the sun was setting in the horizon.

- Wow, what an awesome pitch! – said she immediately after the last hard moves.

The night was now swallowing the day.

[caption id="attachment_6008" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela overcoming the last steps of the spectacular sixth pitch of the route “Divine”, with the night falling fast. Daniela overcoming the last steps of the spectacular sixth pitch of the route “Divine”, with the night falling fast.[/caption]

The headlamps jumped from the backpacks to be placed on the helmets.

We only missed a pitch to reach the top of Cântaro Magro, but the route would not get as easy as we would like at this moment.

What followed was an episode of small misadventures fueled by the rush to end before the dark of the night was total:

1 - A reservation for dinner induced some stress ... "Come on! Come on! "

2 - A bump with the helmet on some rocks turned off the head-lamp, which I could not turn on again with gloves, this happened on the most delicate passage…" Argggggg! Anger!"

3 - The climb insisted on being demanding and, in an opposition move my hip touched the wall and the rope accidentally clipped on a carabineer hanging from my harness.

When trying to climb, I felt my body being pulled back. Without the light the headlamp I could not understand what was happening ... " Shiiiiit ! Arrgg ! What the hell is happening now? Arrg!"

Inevitably, it got totally dark, and nothing would slow down the night, so it would be better to restore my mood, and proceed calmly.

A bad fall triggered by the stupidity of lack of concentration would be at least ridiculous!

With a more quiet spirit, we ended the last pitch. Under a magnificent starry sky, we celebrated the conclusion of a no less magnificent adventure. We celebrated the opening of "Divine”. A line we want to repeat, without any doubt, in order to try the red point of the whole route.

[caption id="attachment_6009" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela on the next day, overcoming one of the key pitches of the second route we opened on that weekend. The frozen grass was bomb-proof, as hard and as good as ice. Daniela on the next day, overcoming one of the key pitches of the second route we opened on that weekend. The frozen grass was bomb-proof, as hard and as good as ice.[/caption]

Not yet satisfied, the next day we spotted an attractive alignment, just to the right side of "Divine". Although most of the ice was gone because of the shining sun and the rock was now naked, the section we choose still had that winter look, promising a more adequate mixed climb. On the first pitch, at a first glance the moves looked truly hard and apparently impossible to protect, as the crack of the dihedral was too wide, useless even for the biggest cam in my harness. However, surprisingly, a small crack appeared on the wall adjoining the dihedral exactly at the appropriate location to allow the convenient protection. Two small well placed stoppers gave me the so needed confidence, and some perfect rock hooking with the tools allowed me to free climb the whole pitch. Then it was Daniela’s turn, which with a good performance overcame that obstacle.

[caption id="attachment_6010" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Heading for the crux of the third pitch of the new line. Heading for the crux of the third pitch of the new line.[/caption]

The initial goal of the next pitch was reaching a chimney, which had the most hyper annoying entry consisting on some “reptilian” moves which included a gentle traction on an instable block.

[caption id="attachment_6011" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Trying to get inside the chimney of the first pitch, hard and annoying moves. Trying to get inside the chimney of the first pitch, hard and annoying moves.[/caption]

On the last part of the pitch, we climbed a narrow goullote with a beautiful and athletic finish to access the platform of the belay, consisting of a vertical dry-tooling passage.

After a final pitch with some single harder moves we reached the summit of Cântaro Magro, thus ending another beautiful wintry line.

[caption id="attachment_6014" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela ending the spectacular third pitch of the new route. Awesome moves, perfect hooking. Daniela ending the spectacular third pitch of the new route. Awesome moves, perfect hooking.[/caption]

With the wind increasing exponentially, we rappelled down the summit and we hit the road, with a huge smile…from ear to ear.

Once again, Serra da Estrela, did not defrauded us.

Paulo Roxo

[caption id="attachment_6015" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Overcoming a not so easy step on the last pitch of this new route “To suffer until it hurts”. Overcoming a not so easy step on the last pitch of this new route “To suffer until it hurts”.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_6016" align="aligncenter" width="400"]The last mixed climbing moves of this magnificent weekend. The last mixed climbing moves of this magnificent weekend.[/caption]

The Topos

This time our aim was to do something interesting…mixed climbing!

[caption id="attachment_5996" align="aligncenter" width="450"]West face of Cântaro Magro, a playground for mixed climbing. West face of Cântaro Magro, a playground for mixed climbing.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_5997" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Daniela in one of the nicest moves of the new route opened on the 23rd of February, “Sofrer até doer” (“To suffer until it hurts”) Daniela in one of the nicest moves of the new route opened on the 23rd of February, “Sofrer até doer” (“To suffer until it hurts”)[/caption]

There are certain well-defined lines that still wander through my head. Projects postponed awaiting the best physical and psychological condition to be climbed. Serra da Estrela still has a large amount of challenges dependent only on the decision of the right climber, at the accurate moment.

One of those “accurate moments” happened on the last 22nd of February.

We descended to the West Face Cântaro Magro finding a spectacularly hard snow. The good conditions anticipated a good day for vertical adventures.

[caption id="attachment_5998" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Descending, hoping to find the "Big one". Descending, hoping to find the "Big one".[/caption]

A quick search looking for a line that would awake our inspiration got us in the bottom of a narrow goullote, which split an enormous slab on a main wall. We had just found the most logical start for a new route, an easy warm up pitch for the difficulties that we guessed were coming.

[caption id="attachment_5999" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Daniela on the easy beginning of the new line. Daniela on the easy beginning of the new line.[/caption]

The second pitch became a hard exercise to manage, it became impossible for me to red point it, not so much because of the intensity of the movements, but because of the difficulty in placing good protections while trying to hang on some really physical and precarious hooks on cracks. Eventually, I managed to place some decent cams and hexcentrics in a large and tricky crack, atypical in the perfect granite of Serra da Estrela.

image6

[caption id="attachment_6001" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Two moments on the second pitch, one of the hardest of the route, a potential M7 Two moments on the second pitch, one of the hardest of the route, a potential M7[/caption]

Among some breaks to rest, all the movements were solved.

A pretty smiling Daniela emerged at the belay, after climbing all the pitch and finding that the workouts directed to hard climbing were producing very positive results.

[caption id="attachment_6002" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela close to the belay after confirming the good results of hard weekdays workouts. Daniela close to the belay after confirming the good results of hard weekdays workouts.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_6003" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela arriving to the comfortable belay of the second pitch, one of the hardest of that day. Daniela arriving to the comfortable belay of the second pitch, one of the hardest of that day.[/caption]

A few easy pitches took us to higher ground on the West Face, until we faced the intimidating and vertical upper wall. Some promising cracks cut the wall from bottom to top, and that filled up our expectations. We were hoping to find good powerful rock hookings and - most importantly - a good chance to place convenient protections.

[caption id="attachment_6004" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Paulo starting the easy third pitch. Paulo starting the easy third pitch.[/caption]

What followed was an athletic climb, once again interrupted by one or two moments to “relax”, useful for analyzing higher ground. After some time, two drained arms hooked the ice-tools in the last clumps of frozen grass and snow, to raise a tired body and throw it into a comfortable and perfect spot to place the belay. A few minutes later in relief, I admired the culmination of that magnificent pitch while belaying my partner.

[caption id="attachment_6006" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Two moments on the sixth pitch, one of the hardest, spectacular! Two moments on the sixth pitch, one of the hardest, spectacular![/caption] [caption id="attachment_6007" align="aligncenter" width="400"]After the crux of the sixth pitch, a proposal of M7, with good rock hooking placements and the promise of swollen forearms. After the crux of the sixth pitch, a proposal of M7, with good rock hooking placements and the promise of swollen forearms.[/caption]

Daniela was giving everything to free climb that pitch and in the process, she climbed as fast as her strength allowed her, trying to overcome the shadow projected on the opposite rock face. The shadow also “climbed”, as the sun was setting in the horizon.

- Wow, what an awesome pitch! – said she immediately after the last hard moves.

The night was now swallowing the day.

[caption id="attachment_6008" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela overcoming the last steps of the spectacular sixth pitch of the route “Divine”, with the night falling fast. Daniela overcoming the last steps of the spectacular sixth pitch of the route “Divine”, with the night falling fast.[/caption]

The headlamps jumped from the backpacks to be placed on the helmets.

We only missed a pitch to reach the top of Cântaro Magro, but the route would not get as easy as we would like at this moment.

What followed was an episode of small misadventures fueled by the rush to end before the dark of the night was total:

1 - A reservation for dinner induced some stress ... "Come on! Come on! "

2 - A bump with the helmet on some rocks turned off the head-lamp, which I could not turn on again with gloves, this happened on the most delicate passage…" Argggggg! Anger!"

3 - The climb insisted on being demanding and, in an opposition move my hip touched the wall and the rope accidentally clipped on a carabineer hanging from my harness.

When trying to climb, I felt my body being pulled back. Without the light the headlamp I could not understand what was happening ... " Shiiiiit ! Arrgg ! What the hell is happening now? Arrg!"

Inevitably, it got totally dark, and nothing would slow down the night, so it would be better to restore my mood, and proceed calmly.

A bad fall triggered by the stupidity of lack of concentration would be at least ridiculous!

With a more quiet spirit, we ended the last pitch. Under a magnificent starry sky, we celebrated the conclusion of a no less magnificent adventure. We celebrated the opening of "Divine”. A line we want to repeat, without any doubt, in order to try the red point of the whole route.

[caption id="attachment_6009" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela on the next day, overcoming one of the key pitches of the second route we opened on that weekend. The frozen grass was bomb-proof, as hard and as good as ice. Daniela on the next day, overcoming one of the key pitches of the second route we opened on that weekend. The frozen grass was bomb-proof, as hard and as good as ice.[/caption]

Not yet satisfied, the next day we spotted an attractive alignment, just to the right side of "Divine". Although most of the ice was gone because of the shining sun and the rock was now naked, the section we choose still had that winter look, promising a more adequate mixed climb. On the first pitch, at a first glance the moves looked truly hard and apparently impossible to protect, as the crack of the dihedral was too wide, useless even for the biggest cam in my harness. However, surprisingly, a small crack appeared on the wall adjoining the dihedral exactly at the appropriate location to allow the convenient protection. Two small well placed stoppers gave me the so needed confidence, and some perfect rock hooking with the tools allowed me to free climb the whole pitch. Then it was Daniela’s turn, which with a good performance overcame that obstacle.

[caption id="attachment_6010" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Heading for the crux of the third pitch of the new line. Heading for the crux of the third pitch of the new line.[/caption]

The initial goal of the next pitch was reaching a chimney, which had the most hyper annoying entry consisting on some “reptilian” moves which included a gentle traction on an instable block.

[caption id="attachment_6011" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Trying to get inside the chimney of the first pitch, hard and annoying moves. Trying to get inside the chimney of the first pitch, hard and annoying moves.[/caption]

On the last part of the pitch, we climbed a narrow goullote with a beautiful and athletic finish to access the platform of the belay, consisting of a vertical dry-tooling passage.

After a final pitch with some single harder moves we reached the summit of Cântaro Magro, thus ending another beautiful wintry line.

[caption id="attachment_6014" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela ending the spectacular third pitch of the new route. Awesome moves, perfect hooking. Daniela ending the spectacular third pitch of the new route. Awesome moves, perfect hooking.[/caption]

With the wind increasing exponentially, we rappelled down the summit and we hit the road, with a huge smile…from ear to ear.

Once again, Serra da Estrela, did not defrauded us.

Paulo Roxo

[caption id="attachment_6015" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Overcoming a not so easy step on the last pitch of this new route “To suffer until it hurts”. Overcoming a not so easy step on the last pitch of this new route “To suffer until it hurts”.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_6016" align="aligncenter" width="400"]The last mixed climbing moves of this magnificent weekend. The last mixed climbing moves of this magnificent weekend.[/caption]

The Topos

This time our aim was to do something interesting…mixed climbing!

[caption id="attachment_5996" align="aligncenter" width="450"]West face of Cântaro Magro, a playground for mixed climbing. West face of Cântaro Magro, a playground for mixed climbing.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_5997" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Daniela in one of the nicest moves of the new route opened on the 23rd of February, “Sofrer até doer” (“To suffer until it hurts”) Daniela in one of the nicest moves of the new route opened on the 23rd of February, “Sofrer até doer” (“To suffer until it hurts”)[/caption]

There are certain well-defined lines that still wander through my head. Projects postponed awaiting the best physical and psychological condition to be climbed. Serra da Estrela still has a large amount of challenges dependent only on the decision of the right climber, at the accurate moment.

One of those “accurate moments” happened on the last 22nd of February.

We descended to the West Face Cântaro Magro finding a spectacularly hard snow. The good conditions anticipated a good day for vertical adventures.

[caption id="attachment_5998" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Descending, hoping to find the "Big one". Descending, hoping to find the "Big one".[/caption]

A quick search looking for a line that would awake our inspiration got us in the bottom of a narrow goullote, which split an enormous slab on a main wall. We had just found the most logical start for a new route, an easy warm up pitch for the difficulties that we guessed were coming.

[caption id="attachment_5999" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Daniela on the easy beginning of the new line. Daniela on the easy beginning of the new line.[/caption]

The second pitch became a hard exercise to manage, it became impossible for me to red point it, not so much because of the intensity of the movements, but because of the difficulty in placing good protections while trying to hang on some really physical and precarious hooks on cracks. Eventually, I managed to place some decent cams and hexcentrics in a large and tricky crack, atypical in the perfect granite of Serra da Estrela.

image6

[caption id="attachment_6001" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Two moments on the second pitch, one of the hardest of the route, a potential M7 Two moments on the second pitch, one of the hardest of the route, a potential M7[/caption]

Among some breaks to rest, all the movements were solved.

A pretty smiling Daniela emerged at the belay, after climbing all the pitch and finding that the workouts directed to hard climbing were producing very positive results.

[caption id="attachment_6002" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela close to the belay after confirming the good results of hard weekdays workouts. Daniela close to the belay after confirming the good results of hard weekdays workouts.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_6003" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela arriving to the comfortable belay of the second pitch, one of the hardest of that day. Daniela arriving to the comfortable belay of the second pitch, one of the hardest of that day.[/caption]

A few easy pitches took us to higher ground on the West Face, until we faced the intimidating and vertical upper wall. Some promising cracks cut the wall from bottom to top, and that filled up our expectations. We were hoping to find good powerful rock hookings and - most importantly - a good chance to place convenient protections.

[caption id="attachment_6004" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Paulo starting the easy third pitch. Paulo starting the easy third pitch.[/caption]

What followed was an athletic climb, once again interrupted by one or two moments to “relax”, useful for analyzing higher ground. After some time, two drained arms hooked the ice-tools in the last clumps of frozen grass and snow, to raise a tired body and throw it into a comfortable and perfect spot to place the belay. A few minutes later in relief, I admired the culmination of that magnificent pitch while belaying my partner.

[caption id="attachment_6006" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Two moments on the sixth pitch, one of the hardest, spectacular! Two moments on the sixth pitch, one of the hardest, spectacular![/caption] [caption id="attachment_6007" align="aligncenter" width="400"]After the crux of the sixth pitch, a proposal of M7, with good rock hooking placements and the promise of swollen forearms. After the crux of the sixth pitch, a proposal of M7, with good rock hooking placements and the promise of swollen forearms.[/caption]

Daniela was giving everything to free climb that pitch and in the process, she climbed as fast as her strength allowed her, trying to overcome the shadow projected on the opposite rock face. The shadow also “climbed”, as the sun was setting in the horizon.

- Wow, what an awesome pitch! – said she immediately after the last hard moves.

The night was now swallowing the day.

[caption id="attachment_6008" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela overcoming the last steps of the spectacular sixth pitch of the route “Divine”, with the night falling fast. Daniela overcoming the last steps of the spectacular sixth pitch of the route “Divine”, with the night falling fast.[/caption]

The headlamps jumped from the backpacks to be placed on the helmets.

We only missed a pitch to reach the top of Cântaro Magro, but the route would not get as easy as we would like at this moment.

What followed was an episode of small misadventures fueled by the rush to end before the dark of the night was total:

1 - A reservation for dinner induced some stress ... "Come on! Come on! "

2 - A bump with the helmet on some rocks turned off the head-lamp, which I could not turn on again with gloves, this happened on the most delicate passage…" Argggggg! Anger!"

3 - The climb insisted on being demanding and, in an opposition move my hip touched the wall and the rope accidentally clipped on a carabineer hanging from my harness.

When trying to climb, I felt my body being pulled back. Without the light the headlamp I could not understand what was happening ... " Shiiiiit ! Arrgg ! What the hell is happening now? Arrg!"

Inevitably, it got totally dark, and nothing would slow down the night, so it would be better to restore my mood, and proceed calmly.

A bad fall triggered by the stupidity of lack of concentration would be at least ridiculous!

With a more quiet spirit, we ended the last pitch. Under a magnificent starry sky, we celebrated the conclusion of a no less magnificent adventure. We celebrated the opening of "Divine”. A line we want to repeat, without any doubt, in order to try the red point of the whole route.

[caption id="attachment_6009" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela on the next day, overcoming one of the key pitches of the second route we opened on that weekend. The frozen grass was bomb-proof, as hard and as good as ice. Daniela on the next day, overcoming one of the key pitches of the second route we opened on that weekend. The frozen grass was bomb-proof, as hard and as good as ice.[/caption]

Not yet satisfied, the next day we spotted an attractive alignment, just to the right side of "Divine". Although most of the ice was gone because of the shining sun and the rock was now naked, the section we choose still had that winter look, promising a more adequate mixed climb. On the first pitch, at a first glance the moves looked truly hard and apparently impossible to protect, as the crack of the dihedral was too wide, useless even for the biggest cam in my harness. However, surprisingly, a small crack appeared on the wall adjoining the dihedral exactly at the appropriate location to allow the convenient protection. Two small well placed stoppers gave me the so needed confidence, and some perfect rock hooking with the tools allowed me to free climb the whole pitch. Then it was Daniela’s turn, which with a good performance overcame that obstacle.

[caption id="attachment_6010" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Heading for the crux of the third pitch of the new line. Heading for the crux of the third pitch of the new line.[/caption]

The initial goal of the next pitch was reaching a chimney, which had the most hyper annoying entry consisting on some “reptilian” moves which included a gentle traction on an instable block.

[caption id="attachment_6011" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Trying to get inside the chimney of the first pitch, hard and annoying moves. Trying to get inside the chimney of the first pitch, hard and annoying moves.[/caption]

On the last part of the pitch, we climbed a narrow goullote with a beautiful and athletic finish to access the platform of the belay, consisting of a vertical dry-tooling passage.

After a final pitch with some single harder moves we reached the summit of Cântaro Magro, thus ending another beautiful wintry line.

[caption id="attachment_6014" align="aligncenter" width="400"]Daniela ending the spectacular third pitch of the new route. Awesome moves, perfect hooking. Daniela ending the spectacular third pitch of the new route. Awesome moves, perfect hooking.[/caption]

With the wind increasing exponentially, we rappelled down the summit and we hit the road, with a huge smile…from ear to ear.

Once again, Serra da Estrela, did not defrauded us.

Paulo Roxo

[caption id="attachment_6015" align="aligncenter" width="450"]Overcoming a not so easy step on the last pitch of this new route “To suffer until it hurts”. Overcoming a not so easy step on the last pitch of this new route “To suffer until it hurts”.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_6016" align="aligncenter" width="400"]The last mixed climbing moves of this magnificent weekend. The last mixed climbing moves of this magnificent weekend.[/caption]

The Topos