The latest from our French sponsored climber Sylvain Thiabaud.[gallery link="file"]
I wanted to climb multi-pitch routes this summer with my brother Vincent, nicknamed “La Rouille”, a long story… But now he doesn’t have hair any more, which is another story ;-)
Weather check... 2 days of good weather in the Ecrins, we decide to go and climb in Sialouze, a big granite face 400 meters high just above the refuge “Sélé”
Objectives: “Unchi Maka”, ABO and “Purée d’astragale”, ED; both are mixed routes, where you have to protect yourself with friends when rock allows it, and bolts when the rock is too compact.
We have to be there at 18h30 for dinner... 2h30 driving and 1000M+ to the refuge... hurry up!!
We arrive finally at 19H00 and just after eating, we are invited by Raoul, mountain guide and caretaker of the refuge…drinking and clinking too much génépy glasses with him until the middle of the night…
Headache… Plans must be changed!! We start today with Purée d’Astragale and tomorrow will be the day of Unchi Maka :-)
600m M+ of approach where we paid for our night excess… Then, the climbing on fantastic granite and the fresh air of mountains were marvellous.
In the evening, Raoul tried another time to bring us back in his ‘hell’s kitchen” as he likes to say… But tonight sleeping!!
7H00 : the approach looks easy after yesterday.
We start climbing, it’s cold.. 5c/6a+/6b+/6c/7b+/7a+… The pitches add up, all on-sight
8a very bouldery. Fall L and too many more pitches above to retry it.
7b/5c/7b/7a...The rock is just fantastic!! It’s like “Tafonis” off Corsica over 3000m altitude!!!
Another 7c+ bouldery and that’s the summit 2 pitches after
First climbing in the Ecrins…captivated!!
10 abseils, 3 hours of descent to the car...where we both think that Ecrins are “Rock-country”!! 2H30 driving back home and in bed at 1H00…
Thanks to Raoul
Great thanks for RAB support !!
Next target : Glandasse in south Vercors…