I look at the “Croix des Têtes” peak every morning, as I open my curtains. An impressive 600m steep limestone face, one of the biggest in France (lots of basejumpers here). I climbed years ago a route with a big pillar, called “Happy Birthday”, the route is so long that you have to go and sleep at the bottom of the face. Not time enough right now, but I still desire to climb it again.
At the right of the face is a shorter area I never climbed, it has many routes and is perfect for one day, so let’s go :-)
Breakfast at 5AM, 1/2H driving and 2h30 of approach... we are at the bottom of the route at 8h30AM
The route starts with a 4+, and immediately the hardest pitch : a crimpy 7b with bolts in the wrong place, out of the edges-line… so hard !! Then, 3 fantastic pitches graded 7a :-)
And finally, 6b+ and the prettiest pitch of the route, a 6c+ on abrasive rock, steep, almost an overhang at the top of the face... so good for finishing this line !!
During climbing, I was absorbed by the whole area on my left, where there are no bolts, no routes... I was dreaming of bolting something on this face... looking at the line, the edges, the possible belay places.
So, the next news could be the story of this bolting!
Thanks RAB for support[gallery link="file"]
Other multipitch routes
Daisy Chienne, ED+, 260m, 7b+ max, Tour Termier
Good weather but very cold !!
After 1 hour approach, we start climbing… there are many people in the other easy routes.
Tour Termier is the only other big wall where I see many other climbers.
My father and my brother are looking for Genepy and waiting for higher temperatures, but it's no way.
First pitche, 7a bouldery on the first moves and I don't have any sensations at the top of my fingers.
The rock is fantastic, very abrasive !!
The face is in the shade until 12H... we're waiting for the sun and finally, strong winds bring us clouds.. but no sun today.
Temperature will stay under 5°C.. enjoy :-)
The route is wonderful, all pitches on sighted, excepted the 7b+ with a graven hold I missed :-(
Descent on the back of the face, happy to walk and warming up !!
Les 1° pas d'Elsa, ED, 400m, 7a+ max, Gillardes
Another route I wanted to climb.
400m of a steep, impressive wall.
Bolts are far and away, you have to climb between protections, and the rock isn't perfect, especially in the first pitches.
We climb quickly with my brother, thanks to our July training
The "Obiou" peak is watching us during the climbing
Happy to have on sighted this route.
The Shadow Hoodie is definitively my best all conditions friend for multipitch routes !!
Thanks RAB for support