The next morning we crammed into Savannah’s car and drove to the market in Hidalgo. On market day the streets are filled with fresh fruit and veggies, hand pressed tacos, fried cactus, and a variety of other items like clothing, tools and trinkets. Bellies full and our taco supplies restored, we headed back to the villa.
Each day we’d show up at the crag in our female posse. The supportive, positive energy was incredible and infectious. One of my goals for this trip was to work on my onsight game. It was a fun goal since it meant I’d get to do a ton of mileage. But it was also a style that greatly intimidated me. Too often in the past I would set off burdened with constant doubt that I wasn’t climbing “right.” I would get stuck, down climb, get frustrated, hold on for so long that my forearms felt like they would burst from the lactic acid build-up, and eventually I’d fall off. I lacked confidence in unknown terrain.
Flashing is a little less intimidating. It means you have some prior information about the climb. I arrived at the crag one day looking to try a route called Cyclops 12d/13a (7c/+), just as a lady was lowering off it. “Want beta?”, “Yeah sure.” She pointed out a few things from the ground and then as I climbed she continued to shout beta. I moved through sequences, sometimes following her suggestions, sometimes finding my own. I felt like everything was flowing perfectly. I was trying hard yet executing without caring too much about the outcome. Just picking things and going for it with confidence. Suddenly I was at the rest just below the anchor, shaking out my forearms I tried not to get excited prematurely. I pulled the final moves and clipped the chains. Woah, that was unexpected, “Thanks for the beta!”.