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Review By

Zac Poulton

A fully qualified mountain instructor and expedition guide, Zac is one of the most experienced climbers and mountaineers on the AMI test team. Based in the Lake District, but always on the move, Zac reviews the new AW16 Xenon-X Jacket with Primaloft Gold Insulation.

Synthetic duvet jackets have been a mainstay of my clothing system since becoming a realistic alternative to fleece back in the late nineties. I've used and abused a number of jackets from ultra-lightweight pieces to full expedition parkers and even insulated trousers in polar regions.I’ve found that Primaloft clothing offers a lot of protection and survivability for their weight. They are wind and weatherproof but also keep you warm when wet, which is essential for our typical UK weather.

The latest incarnation of the Xenon-X Jacket had a baptism of fire last month. I teamed it up with the lightweight Vapour Rise Jacket for the variety of different days inherent in being a mountain instructor - from chilly belays while guiding on a Lake District mountain crag, to a soggy day taking photos of a mountain event. It’s been used as a lightweight warm layer for a very windy mountain marathon and as a stunning bivi, high above Chamonix while introducing friends to the delights of alpine climbing. It provided instant warmth after an open water swim under a full moon and spent several days stuffed into the bottom of my rucksack as an emergency layer while instructing.

The new Primaloft Gold Active is slightly less warm weight for weight than its predecessor but it’s more robust matted composition means that the jackets lining fabric can have a more open weave and therefore greater breathability. This becomes very obvious the first time you work up a sweat. Normally I'd be venting a synthetic jacket and removing hats and gloves to avoid overheating, but the Xenon-X was comfortable across a wider range of activity, quickly wicking moisture and heat away, which also meant I didn't get cold and clammy when I stopped moving. Despite its low weight it feels reassuringly warm and will easily layer over or under my shell.

Rab® have kept it simple with a couple of hand-warmer pockets and an internal chest pocket which will take a map or guidebook with ease, while the under helmet hood is extremely comfortable and useful.

Left: The Lycra bound under helmet hood. Right: The internal chest pocket which will take a map or guidebook with ease. Left: The Lycra bound under helmet hood. Right: The internal chest pocket which will take a map or guidebook with ease.

Many lightweight fabrics are prone to getting jammed in zips, however with the Xenon-X the wind baffle behind the teeth has been slightly stiffened providing the perfect balance between zip jam prevention and minimal weight and bulk.

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Practical as a summer and winter climbing layer, this jacket is becoming my go to option for UK instruction and guiding. It ticks all of the boxes that a lightweight synthetic jacket should but introduces an element of flexibility. I look forward to putting the Xenon-X through it’s paces in Antarctica at the end of this year. I’ll report back on how it holds up!

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