As soon as we saw a sparkle of light at the end of the tunnel, we started planning our trips. Frankenjura and Ceuse should do the job, we figured. Next part of the plan: transportation and accommodation. We didn’t own a car, so when we got the chance to borrow the campervan from my girlfriend’s parents, we grabbed it. The psyche was high, we had what we needed, so there was only one last step in the plan to complete: climb.
On the 9th of July, after finishing my last session on the corona woody, we drove off to the Frankenjura. I already had a route that I wanted to try; “Queeeel dich, du Sau” (it means: torture yourself, you pig). Well, that I did… On the first day trying the route I injured my finger. On the route there is a dynamic move to a mono (with my beta at least), and I guess that was just a bit too much for my dear and beloved ring finger. My friend, and also the best hand-physio in the Netherlands, Mathieu Ceron, told me not to climb for at least a week… Here I was, super stoked and ready to rumble on some hard sport routes, barely able to hold the rope while belaying. After a couple of days my girlfriend promoted me from belay-bitch to belay-master, so at least I got some sort of ‘send’.
After a week of belaying I tried to touch some rock between executing my perfected belays. My finger actually felt fine, and I was even able to flash an 8a! There was definitely a sparkle of hope and success, so after a couple of days I decided to try my project again. I couldn’t find a more finger-friendly beta, so making that specific move was quite a mental battle. Besides, aiming dynamically for a mono is pretty low-percentage, so I was able to stick that move for about 30% of my attempts. All in all it became a pretty big mental battle. After quite some attempts I still didn’t reach the chains. The route felt absolutely doable, but my mental game got the best of me. I decided to leave it for now and finish it another trip.